Jasper in January promises fun, indoors and out

By Stephen A. Nelson

Those who love it, love it a lot.

And for those who love winter in the great outdoors -- there's a lot to love at Jasper in January, Alberta's answer to Quebec's Winter Carnival and Winnipeg's Festival du Voyageur.

"What's exciting about the Jasper in January festival is that it offers visitors a diverse array of events and activities that both couples and families can take part in and enjoy," says Anastasia Martin-Stilwell at Tourism Jasper. "It's really the perfect way to kick off the new year and head to Jasper for a little authentic Rocky Mountain fun."

The festival is a two-week showcase for everything that's great about the Rockies in winter.

This is where outdoor adventure meets indoor arts and culture. It's a party in the park that's become Western Canada's premiere winter festival.

It began more humbly, 24 years ago, on the silver anniversary of Marmot Basin -- the ski resort that for many defines the Jasper experience.

The ski hill decided to celebrate its marquee anniversary with a party that everyone could enjoy.

It was one heck of a party and a great success -- so they decided to make Jasper in January an annual celebration.

These days, Marmot Basin -- along with hotels, restaurants and retailers -- still offers attractive discounts to those who want to join the fun. And the whole community gets involved to roll out the red carpet for visitors.

"Whether you're interested in untamed outdoor adventure -- like skiing, snowshoeing, polar dipping, moonlight skates and the sights and sounds of a bustling family street party -- or you're looking more for eclectic indoor pursuits ... Jasper in January really provides one of Western Canada's premiere winter-festival experiences that everyone is sure to enjoy." 

The original story in The Edmonton Journal

Stephen A. Nelson is a freelance writer and broadcaster.

The Importance of Being Andy: Pop Art at the AGA

By Stephen A. Nelson

For The Brandon Sun

Jasper National Park's Tangle Ridge tempest: different points of view about different viewpoint

Ad in local newspaper inviting public to meeting.

 By Stephen A. Nelson

Supporters say Brewster Travels' proposed Glacier Discovery Walk at Jasper's Tangle Ridge will "enable visitors to engage with this dramatic landscape in a way that was not previously accessible to the majority of Jasper Park visitors."

Brewster president Michael Hannan says, "You'll have stunning views of the Athabasca Glacier, you'll be looking over the Sunwapta Canyon and looking north, you'll have stunning views of Tangle Falls and below the platform, you'll hear the roar of the falls."

Critics and detractors, such as Jasper resident Jill Seaton, say installing a glass-floored viewing platform here would be a travesty on the level of  "putting in a water slide at the Vatican."

About 100 people - residents, students, business owners and tourism promoters - were at the public meeting at the Jasper Yellowhead Museum Monday night to learn about the controversial project. Many of them - but not all - were there to learn how to stop it.

Conspicuous by their absence were local politcians: MLA Robin Campbell (PC); MP Rob Merrifield Cons.), Mayor Richard Ireland, and all but one of Jasper Town Councillors.

There was no visible means of support from Parks Canada - the government agency responsible for managing Canada's national park. Not the Park Superintendent. No one from "Visitor Experience."

But that didn't prevent discussion and criticism of the way Parks Canada has handled its guardianship of Jasper National Park in general - and this proposal in particular.

A highlight of the show was Forest Stump: A Parks Canada Metaphor - a smart parody of Forest Gump.

"This video was made by Jasper high school students to critique the most recent edition of the parks management plan. All students involved agreed that the most major concern was the single-minded emphasis placed on "visitor experience."  - From Facebook Glacier Discover Walk Discussion Board

Its message: Dear Parks Canada; Stupid is as stupid does. The current approach is stupid. If you really want to improve the "visitor experience" focus on quality, not quantity. Eco-tourism is the way to go, not mass exploitation and roadside attractions.

Even before the meeting, the whole issue had caught the attention of national and regional news outlets, including The National Post, The Edmonton Journal. 

The stories are balanced and perhaps fair - with "pros" from Brewster Travel and Tourism Jasper, as well as "cons" from the Jasper Environmental Association. But both stories failed to capture the intense reactions from the people who live here - many of whom are hostile to the whole idea of any more roadside attractions in a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

And although Brewster has been operating in the Rockies for generations, it doesn't help that Brewster Travel's parent company is an American multinational - Viad.

But on Monday, local businessman Marc LeBlanc and student Theresa Westhaver were interviewed by CBC Radio One in Edmonton. The interview shed light on why this has become such a hot-button issue for people who live in Jasper and consider themselves stewards of the creation:

CBC Radio  -The Debate In Jasper About A Glass Sky Walk Continues

More later...

Going to the Calgary Zoo: Lions and Tigers and Scares (Oh My!)

Not the Only Dinosaurs

Story and photo by Stephen A. Nelson

Brandon Sun / Canadian Press

A lot of Canadians feel somewhat ambivalent about wild animals in captivity.

One the one hand, it seems just wrong to put migrating Beluga whales in an over-sized swimming pool or to put polar bears on artificial ice during a sweltering summer.

But Canadians also appreciate the value that a good space can have. They understand that the survival of some endangered species — Siberian tigers for example — depends on breeding programs like the ones at the Calgary Zoo. And zoos can help us understand the importance of preserving the wildlife habitat.

But there’s no denying the Calgary Zoo has been getting a lot of bad press in the past year. There’s been a string of high-profile animal deaths and some serious problems after stupid humans had close encounters with animals.

Depending on who you ask,these incidents are the result of either bad luck or bad management.

The zoo, for its part, says it’s made the necessary changes to ensure these kind of things never happen again.

So we wondered what to expect when we visited the Calgary Zoo for a “behind the scenes” experience. This walk and talk with the animals is a privilege that’s usually reserved for school children who want to make like Dr. Dolittle.

What we got was a warm reception from zoo keepers who were clearly concerned for the animals in their care. And despite some initial misgivings, we felt like big kids when we got to feed the giraffes.

We missed out on the other “big” thrill for school kids: helping the hippos to brush their teeth. These days though, brushing behemoths and giant giraffes are not the biggest attractions at the zoo.

The biggest draw is the Dinosaurs Alive area, where 20 animatronic giants turn a corner of the zoo into a kind of prehistoric park.

Of course, for grownups who saw the Jurassic Park movies, nothing short of a living, breathing T. Rex and a pair of crafty raptors will satisfy. But for kids, the roar of the mechanical “terrible lizards” was a big thrill — and sent the young ones scurrying to Mummy for cover.

Among the anachronistic animals, the Stegosaurus, Triceratops and even the Pterodactyl were particularly impressive. But our favourite was the T. Rex’s cousin, the Albertosaurus — which prompted someone to comment, “See! The Socreds aren’t the only things in Alberta that became extinct.”

Edmonton First Impressions: More to Alberta's Capital City than Oilers, Eskimos and Folk Festivals

By Stephen A Nelson

The Brandon Sun

June 19, 2010

You never a get a second chance to make a first impression.

And, to be honest, our first impression of Edmonton was, um ... unimpressive.

“Grey sky, grey city, grey people,” said my friend Andrea — a traveller from

Switzerland who was visiting the city for the first time.

Still, Edmonton does have some great offerings for visitors.

Old Strathcona District: Maybe Not Exactly the Champs-Elysée but best part of Edmonton

photo copyright Travel Alberta

Old Strathcona District

“I thought it would be like the Champs-Elysée , but it's not.”

That was Andrea's first reaction when we arrived in Edmonton's Old Strathcona District.

The travel magazines promising theatres and cinemas, boutiques and bookstores, restaurants and sidewalk cafés had clearly captured Andrea's imagination – and she was most keen to go to what I had called “the best part of Edmonton.”

Clearly Andrea had failed to factor in two things: Edmonton is not Paris, and Old Strathcona's famous Whyte Avenue lacks the more temperate nature of those foreign climes. In fact, Whyte Avenue might have more in common with Toronto's Queen Street than it does with Paris' tree-lined avenue. But that's not all bad.

Royal Alberta Museum: Not So Many Dinosaurs but Lots of Fossils in This Corner of Edmonton

Royal Alberta Museum

First things first: There aren't many dinosaurs at the Royal Alberta Museum. For dinosaurs, you have to go to the RAM's sister museum – the Royal Tyrell Museum – in Drumheller. Or at least across the lane to Alberta's Government House, where the provincial cabinet meets.

What you will find at the RAM are galleries and exhibitions that are classic and contemporary, eternal and engaging at the same time.

The RAM's contrast with the Art Gallery of Alberta couldn't be more obvious:

The revamped AGA is cool and ultra-modern in an urban renewal setting. The museum, on the other hand, seems like an historic manor house that is part of the landscape. When you enter into the main hall, you half-expect a huge fireplace and a warm fire.

Art Gallery of Alberta: Guggenheim of the Prairies

Art Gallery of Alberta

“It looks like the Guggenheim,” Andrea exclaimed when she first caught a glimpse of the remodelled Art Gallery of Alberta. “They copied it."

And certainly anyone who sees what they've done with the re-imagined repository of art would have to admit that the architect was at least inspired by the curved lines and open spaces of the Guggenheim. And that's not a bad thing.

But the people at the AGA will also tell you that the architecture was inspired by the city itself – a rigid grid of streets and avenues, superimposed on the flowing lines of the river and valley.

It's an interesting synthesis. And wherever you go in the gallery, you feel like you're inside some synthetic jewel looking out to see the different facets of the city.

Well, at least you would on an clear day.

Roche Bonhomme: The Old Man of Jasper

Look Through Your Window...

The Stone Guardian of Jasper, as seen from my room with a view.

Goodbye, Norma Jean: Marilyn Monroe in Jasper National Park

The River of No Return

1953 B & W Photos by Ray O'Neil. 

Copyright Keith Allen Photography, Jasper, Alberta

In 1953, Marilyn Monroe was in Jasper to film River of No Return, co-starring Robert Mitchum.

While Marilyn was here, Jasper photographer Ray O'Neil managed to get a photo shoot with her. The result was a series of classic photos, some of which can now be obtained in Jasper's stores, especially Jasper Photography.

But River of No Return wasn't the only drama during Marilyn's stay: She was "asked to leave" Jasper's most exclusive hotel because she was wearing "inappropriate attire" for a lady: she was wearing shorts.

Marilyn then moved into one of the better hotels in town, but ended up leaving there also, after a row in the lobby. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) were called in to escort her from the hotel.

The Mounties arrived and made sure they got their woman.

Take a tour on the trail of Marilyn Monroe:

http://mrtaxi.wordpress.com/category/mr-taxi-and-tours/

More stories:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Stephen-A-Nelson-Writer-Editor-and-More/374226352256

Jasper Lutheran Church and Lutheran House

Rocky Mountain Gothic

This edifice began its life in 1924 as the home for the Roman Catholic congregation in Jasper - Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church.

It has a firm foundation of field stone and exterior walls of brick.

The upper part of the tower and the nave have exterior wooden shingles.

The presbytery (residence) was completed in 1927.

While many people have sung in this church, the most famous is Bing Crosby. Der Bingle fell in love with Jasper while he was here filming The Emperor's Waltz. He often worshipped and sang at this church when in Jasper and - through the church -made some sizable donations to the community .

In 1967, this edifice became Jasper Lutheran Church - home to the Lutheran congregation - largely through the efforts of Pastor John Ekstedt. Under his guidance, much of the interior was refurbished to make the church look and feel more Protestant and not so much Catholic.

The baptismal font, altar candle-holders and wooden cross were all made from local materials by members of the congregation.

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, the residence (manse) was used as a retreat centre in winter. In summer, it was home to Lutheran House - a group of young adults living together in Christian community.

In 2008, John Ekstedt returned  as pastor of the Jasper congregation. On his last Sunday (June 2010), the church got a new cross for its steeple - replacing the one that been there since the building first became Jasper Lutheran Church.

Good Medicine: Magical Lake in the Maligne Valley

 Summer visitors assume that Medicine is a normal mountain lake, but it isn't.

During the summer, glacier melt waters from Maligne Lake flood the lake, sometimes overflowing it. In fall and winter the lake disappears, becoming a mudflat with scattered pools of water connected by a stream. But there is no visible channel draining the lake – so where then does the water go?

The answer is, "out the bottom", like a bathtub without a plug. The Maligne River pours into the lake from the south and drains out through sinkholes in the bottom. The water then streams through a cave system formed in the slightly soluble limestone rock, surfacing again in the area of Maligne Canyon 16 kilometers downstream. This is one of the largest known sinking rivers in the Western Hemisphere and may be the largest inaccessible cave system anywhere in the world!

Summer melt water coming into the lake exceeds the capacity of the sinkholes to drain it. Decreased melt water in the late summer and fall means that the lake's sinkholes can drain the lake faster then the Maligne River can fill it. This creates the disappearing lake phenomena. 

Aboriginal peoples called the lake Medicine because of its seemingly magical powers, and the United Nations created the Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site partly because of this unique drainage system.

Source: Parks Canada

Little White Church in the Rockies: Jasper Park Baptist Church and Bedford Inn Coffeehouse

This church in Jasper, Alberta was originally home to the "Union" church in Jasper - a congregation of Protestant Christians who weren't members of the Church of England in Canada (Anglican) congregation.

Famed author, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes), laid the cornerstone in 1914, while he was visiting Jasper. The church was officially opened in the fall of 1915, but it took several years to complete.

In 1925, the Union Church in Jasper voted to join the newly formed United Church of Canada - a merger of the Presbyterian, Congregationalist and Methodist churches in Canada.

In 1939, the Jasper United Church was visited by another famed author, John Buchan (The 39 Steps). Of course, at the time he was known as  Governor General of Canada, Lord Tweedsmuir, and was accompanied by Lady Tweedsmuir.

In the early 1940s, the place became known as "The Little White Church in the Rockies."

 In 1965, this building was sold and became home to the Jasper Park Baptist Church congregation. 

For many summers (1968 to the mid-1980s) the church basement was home to to the Bedford Inn Coffeehouse. The coffeehouse, styled like a 17th Century English inn, was named after Bedford, England - the home of another famous author, John Bunyan (The Pilgrim's Progress).

Coming Soon: Real Wild Ride with Jasper Motorcycle Tours

Keep that motor running! Head out on the highway!

It takes more than going down to your local video store and renting Easy Rider to become a rebel. And it takes more than riding on a bus to truly experience the Canadian Rockies.

To be a real rebel, you have to get on the road, off the beaten track, and take the road less travelled. And to experience the Rockies, sometimes you have to have to do that on a motorcycle – preferably a Harley Davidson.

But, of course, not everyone has a bike. And not everyone who has a one can bring it to Jasper. So for we Rebels Without A Cycle, there is Jasper Motorcycle Tours.

I could have rented a bike and leather gear and hit the open road looking like James Dean in Rebel Without A Cause or Marlon Brando in The Wild One. OK, maybe more like Dennis Hopper in Flashback!

But since I don't have my licence, I was most fortunate to get Candace for my guide; I sat in the sidecar, feeling like Robin next to her BatGirl.

Coming Soon: This Is Paradise Spirit Island at Maligne Lake

When explorer Mary Schäffer (a.k.a. Mary Schäffer Warren) first reached the end of Maligne Lake, she was awestruck and almost at a loss for words.

When she found the words, she could hardly contain herself:
“There burst upon us... the finest view any of us had ever beheld in the Rockies. Those miles and miles of lake, the unnamed peaks rising above us, one following the other, each more beautiful than the last... We could have looked ahead and aloft and said, 'This is Paradise.' ”

Schäffer – sometimes known as “Jasper's first tourist” – had explored just about everything between Banff and Jasper. She had seen many magnificent mountains, gazed at glorious glaciers and looked at lots of lakes.

But this, it seemed, was beyond compare.

Highway To Heaven: Travelling Alberta's Icefields Parkway

Running parallel to the Continental Divide, and traversing some of the most the rugged country in Canada, the route between Jasper and Banff is “one of the jewels of Western Canada” and was rated by National Geographic as one of the “10 Greatest Drives in the World.”
Here, young-Earth Creationists and hard-core evolutionary geologists can both find “a sense of presence” living in the river valleys between the great mountain ranges...

By Stephen A. Nelson

The Brandon Sun

October 10, 2009

 

You Take the High Road: Discovering Bonnie Banff from a Brewster Bus

By Stephen A. Nelson
The Brandon Sun
August 15, 2009

A Taste of Heaven: Angel Glacier in Jasper National Park

 Mount Edith Cavell (rhymes with travel) is just south of the town of Jasper and is one of the mountains that define Jasper.

The mountain went by many unofficial names until 1916, when it was named for Edith Cavell. She was an English nurse executed by the Germans during World War I for having helped Allied solders escape from occupied Belgium.

The rapidly receding Angel Glacier is one of the best known in the park, and was once part of a massive glacial system that carved out the valleys of Jasper.

If you don't believe in global warming, just take a look at what's happened to this glacier in 25 years.

Ice Age 2 - The Big Melt: Touring the Columbia Icefield

Sno-Coach Tours and Icefield Explorers
on the Athabasca Glacier

Looking like a Volkswagen on a bulldozer track, this is one of the original Bombardier snowmobiles used for tours of the Athabasca Glacier (Columbia Icefield) in the 1960s and 1970s.

Note that the front skis have been replaced by two wheels, since the Bombardier is no longer used for touring the glacier - only for display.

These vintage "lunar rovers" have been replaced by modern "Icefield Explorers" or "Sno-Coaches" that let you visit the glacier in comfort.

full story:
http://brandonsunnews.blogspot.com/2009/10/highway-to-heaven-travelling-canadian.html

more stories:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Stephen-A-Nelson-Writer-Editor-and-More/374226352256

Coming Soon: Touring the Icefields Parkway Athabasca Glacier from Old Bridge

An unusual view of the Athabasca Glacier at the Columbia Icefield. The Athabasca Glacier is the most visited glacier in North America.
But most people won't see it from this perspective. To see this, you have to get out of the car or bus and put your hiking shoes on. And that's a lot easier if you've stayed at the Glacier View Inn or a nearby campground.